Flying with Turkmenistan Airlines and stopping over in Ashgabat: prepare for a surreal experience (but if the price is right I recommend it)
I recently flew from Bangkok to Milan Malpensa aboard Turkmenistan Airlines. Flag carrier of the state of the same name that has [...]

I recently flew from Bangkok to Milan Malpensa aboard the Turkmenistan Airlines. Flag carrier of the state of the same name that began flying to Milan Malpensa during 2024.
In this article:
The national airline operates from the huge airport in Ashgabat, a building that holds a Guinness World Record for its shape. It is impossible not to notice it when you land or take off from this stopover. However, admiring it from the outside is more complicated, considering that Turkmenistan is one of the most difficult countries in the world to visit as a tourist.
Ashgabat airport: an empty giant with a singular record
In addition to the record for its architecture, Ashgabat Airport may deserve another record: Is among those with the largest area per passenger carried.
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Ashgabat airport has entered the Guinness World Records because its main terminal is the largest building in the world shaped like a seagull in flight.
This iconic structure, made of white marble and with a futuristic design, was opened in the 2016 with the goal of making the airport a symbol of national prestige. In addition to the architectural record, the airport is famous for its disproportionate capacity Than the actual number of passengers.
The structure is designed to handle Up to 14 million travelers per year, but actual traffic is far less, making it one of the emptiest airports in the world relative to its size.
Making transit in Turkmenistan: do you need a visa?
The answer is "it depends.". In 99% of cases, no: If you are arriving from Italy, Turkmenistan Airlines (T5) flies twice a week to Milan, and for those continuing on to an international destination, no visa is required. Once you disembark, simply follow the transit directions. However, you will need to go through the notoriously strict security checks again. After the checks, you enter the sterile area of the airport, and you can head to the departure gate for the next flight.
Visa becomes essential if transit involves leaving the airport. It is possible to apply for a 72-hour visa, but the bureaucracy is rather complex, so in such cases it is best to evaluate other airlines. Of course, a visa is required for those whose final destination is a Turkmen city served by the national airline.
Ashgabat Airport: transit hotel and lounge
Following the signs to the food court, business lounge, and transit hotel, I found myself at the opposite end from the security checkpoints. On the way, I encountered only a few military personnel and lots of perfectly polished marble.
Once I arrived, I found that everything was closed: food court with shutters down, transit hotel not operating, and business lounge sealed.
I then backtracked and discovered that just past security there was an escalator leading to a second business lounge. This time it was open and I was probably the first passenger of the day to access it.
Ashgabat Airport and Wi-Fi: a mirage
Everything in this airport looks fake, like a set design in a movie where the shelves look full, but are actually just empty cardboard boxes.
Forget Wi-Fi. Internet cafes don't exist, and even if the network signal is there, you can't get a lock on it. Even in the lounge, after receiving the password, the result was the same: WhatsApp does not work, VPNs do not bypass the blockade, and you can only browse some sites, but no social networks.
Does it make sense to fly with Turkmenistan Airlines?
The answer is yes, but only if the ticket price is very affordable. However, one must consider the overall quality of travel. Ashgabat is about a six-hour flight from Milan Malpensa, a similar route to Dubai or Doha. Turkmenistan Airlines operates the route with a Boeing 737, so the trip is on a narrow-body aircraft, followed by a stopover at a nearly deserted airport, waiting for a flight to an Asian destination (T5 flies throughout Asia). While for long-haul he uses 777/300 ex Cathay Pacific, which are really good, but also some 777/200s and A330s.
Is it worth saving money? Maybe so, if the economy or business ticket costs half as much as a flight with a more reputable carrier. However, it must be considered that the comfort of an A380 or 787 is not comparable to the seats of a 737 for such a long flight.