Conrad Los Angeles, a diamond (in the rough) in the middle of a city on the brink
I was recently in Los Angeles: it had been years since I had stayed in the City of Angels, and I must say that [...]
I recently went to Los Angeles: I haven't stopped in the City of Angels in years, and I must say that it is truly a city in disarray, in the grip of decay and filth. I have never loved this city, since my first time in the early 2000s. Over the years then I have returned several times, but not lately. In fact when I was passing through LAX. I was always trying to get the fastest connection to fly away to better places.
In this article:
I spent 3 days in the city, intentionally staying in two different hotels and in two areas far apart, but in strategic places for tourists visiting this megalopolis.
The first hotel, the W Hollywood, on Hollywood Boulevard and this Conrad in downtown, the neighborhood that houses the iconic Disney Hall and City Hall. Everywhere degradation, homeless, filth and even stranger zero police around the city. I've been to Santa Monica and the LA Headland Observatory, in all the miles I've driven I haven't seen a single police car or officer.
But let's come to the Conrad. This property opened during 2022 has not yet celebrated its first birthday and has already won dozens of awards. Rated by all as one of the best hotels in the United States, it is the only hotel of this brand present in California and is one of the two iconic towers that make up LA Grand, a complex built in the heart of downtown and designed by archistar Frank Gehry.
Location
As mentioned, this hotel is located in what we Italians would call "downtown," but anyone who has been to LA knows full well that this city the size of 4 times Rome, with 12 million inhabitants, has no downtown.
The hotel is sandwiched between Frank Gehry's masterpiece, the Disney Concert Hall, the Court of Justice, and within walking distance of another very famous building, the LA City Hall set for many TV series and movies.
I got there by subway: yes, in LA there's the subway, but it's an experience I wouldn't recommend to even the worst enemy and made me reevaluate Rio De Janeiro. Getting there from the airport is about a 40-minute trip, but in LA travel times are always to be taken as approximate.
Reservation
Conrad Is one of the insignia of the Hilton Group Dedicated to luxury and contemporary elegance and like all good things it is a very expensive chain. When I had looked at the prices I had decided not to invest the over 800$ per night charged for a basic room, much less did I feel like burn 90 thousand points HHonors For one night in this city.
A few weeks later, at the time of finalizing my trip, I checked again and with great pleasure noticed high but definitely more humane prices and an offer within the American Express travel portal. This property in fact participates in the Fine Hotels & Resorts network, and in addition to all the benefits associated with these reservations there was also a discount of 25%.
I finally booked a night at 348$. And I also decided to use my €150 voucher that every year. Amex gives all Amex Platinum holders.. So at the end of the day. I spent, for one night, just under 200€., then considered the credits to spend in the hotel that I used to the last penny was a real bargain.
Not forgetting that I also gained membership rewards points, Hilton Honors points and all related bonuses.
As we have written several times, with Hilton Honors Gold status, included in the annual fee of the Amex Platinum you receive the Free breakfast at all Hilton hotels worldwide, except in the U.S. where instead you receive a credit to spend at the hotel, even in the restaurant. In this case it was not a big problem because by booking FH+R you always get free breakfast.
The structure
LA Grand is not yet completed, or rather the structure housing the hotel is finished, while the rest of the complex will be in the coming months with the opening of the shopping center and the delivery of the residences.
LA does not have a skyline like other American cities, quite the contrary. And this complex with its 28 stories is confirmation of a different skyline than the rest of the big American cities.
This complex has the very task of revitalizing the area and, once completed, with restaurants public spaces and nightclubs, should kick-start the rebirth of this area of the city, if not the entire LA, something I personally believe little in.
Check-in
Yes, I walked there with my trolley from the nearby subway station, but the entrance is definitely not wow. Then, when you open the elevator doors to the 10th floor, you enter another dimension.
The public spaces are furnished to perfection, the huge windows let in lots of light, and the environment is really warm and comfortable. Perhaps there is something missing to remind us that we are in LA, or the idea behind whoever designed this hotel is not to give it a specific identity and to leave it up to the guest to experience it as they see fit.
I had already checked in online and chosen my room through the app, thanks to theupgrade provided by FH+R reservations my Deluxe room was promoted by one category. And so I ended up in a corner room on the 26th floor.
Not very positive first impact
I must say that if I had stopped at the first 10 minutes in the hotel I would not have been satisfied at all. There was no warmth at the front desk, but this is classic American hotel, but in a Conrad and with Diamond status, the highest in the Hilton loyalty program, I expected something more than minimum wage.
A small example, the pillowcases of the pillows were 2 sizes smaller than the pillows, a hostel stuff not a 5-star hotel stuff.
Fortunately, as the hours passed, the feeling changed.
The room
Whenever I can I always choose the corner rooms because they are (often) the ones with the best view, and I wasn't wrong this time either. Of course, if I chose the other side of the tower I would perhaps have a better view, but that is subjective.
The room is modern, but perhaps a tad too minimal. We are in a 5 star hotel, I would at least expect to have a real closet and not exposed hangers.
The colors are muted, the huge floor-to-ceiling windows let in all the light and all the life of LA, however, this room is not 5-star: it lacks space and most of all there are design and functionality choices that make it clear how one thinks about the computer without imagining how the guest will then live there.
The room is all in home automation, using a button to turn the lights on/off, adjust the intensity, and manage the curtains. However, it is evident how the design and furnishing solutions were conceived on the computer and not in real life.
First example: in this corner room there are two huge windows and it is impossible to lower one and raise the other. It sounds trivial, but if you have the sun on one side forcing you to keep your glasses in the room and a beautiful view of LA on the other side, you might want to lower one and not the other. Also because there is no second curtain to pull down to do that.
Or the huge TV hanging on the wall, with a bracket that is not swiveling, so you have to look at the screen at an angle.
The bed is nice and comfortable, a king mattress and a super soft topper that makes you feel like you are sleeping in a cloud.
The furnishings in the room are similarly basic; there is a cupboard that hides a mini-bar, and all the rest of the classic offerings, such as a nespresso machine, stemware, kettle, and various snacks.
Warning. Minibar and snacks are charged automatically, if you lift anything from its location for more than 60″ you will be immediately charged to your room bill.
The bathroom, like everything else in the room, is also basic. The only cue is the slice of window that brightens and makes the room warm. Excellent choice to eliminate plastic almost entirely from the bathroom.
Of course, I would have expected a better upgrade than the one received, since in addition to being an FH+R reservation I am also Hilton Honors Diamond, but that was passing muster.
The common spaces
Having to work, and not be a tourist in LA, I spent a lot of time in the lobby at the computer, with perfect wifi, and like me there were many other smartworkers using the backdrop of this beautiful hotel for their zoom meetings, or just working while sipping a cappuccino in a really elegant setting.
Lots of light and the warm colors of the furniture make for a truly relaxing environment: every detail is taken care of down to the smallest detail. From the color of the pillowcase to the number of books scattered around the tables to the artwork hanging on the walls and beyond.
There is a really cool air about it, it feels like an episode of an American serial where you make a date in the lobby of a fancy hotel and close the deal of a lifetime.
Food & Drink
A diet coke in the room minibar costs 10$, (fresh) orange juice for breakfast 12$, two small examples to say that everything is expensive beyond all logic, but at least it tastes good and above all it is not boring. The presence of star chef José Andrés is seen and tasted in every dish.
There are two restaurants in this hotel, Agua Viva and San Laurel, in every dish even the scrambled eggs at breakfast are presented and rethought and not simply served in pretty pottery.
Agua Viva is the outdoor restaurant, the one that overlooks the 50-meter pool; it feels like being in a forest, or in a villa garden under the patio.
Here, even on cool February days, you can eat and in case the temperature is not perfect you can wrap yourself in warm blankets and warm yourself in front of fireplaces and under heating lamps.
San Laurel is the posh restaurant, here I was happy to burn all my FH+R credit and also that of the obnoxious destination tax.
A really good dinner with non-trivial dishes, attentive service in an elegant but casual setting where you can come in a jacket and tie or casual attire.
In the morning, the St. Laurel becomes the breakfast room, and in the daylight it looks even more beautiful, or perhaps it may have been the dish chosen more like a work of art than eggs for breakfast.
I was almost sorry to have to break the tortilla el Camino where the egg white is the palette and the splashes are caviar, edible flowers and croutons.
Finally, there is a bar, behind the reception desk, with the opportunity to sip fine cocktails on the terrace overlooking the artwork designed by Frank Gehry, That is, the Disney concert hall.
Swimming Pool, Spa & Gym
The hotel has a rooftop pool on the 12th floor. The pool is heated and is open most of the day.
The location is truly unique and gives spectacular views of all of LA while sunbathing on the sunbed. I stopped by LA in the days just before the snowstorm that battered all of California in February. It was fine in the sun even though the breeze was nice and cool.
I didn't have time to hit the gym or the spa, although I could have used my credit for a treatment.
In conclusion
Of course, it is an expensive facility, and I was really lucky in being able to stay while spending only 200$ for one night when the minimum price is 450$+ tax and during the busiest times the price easily doubles. Life at this hotel is also expensive, but unlike other establishments where the price does not match a product, here you get what you pay for.
I don't know if and when I will return to LA, but if I do, this is definitely a facility I would gladly return to.
Pro
- Location
- Structure
- Kitchen
Against
- Details
- Attention to detail
- The price